Because Padova did not charm us, we made plans to take a train to Vicenza, 20 minutes away, to see buildings by the famous 16th century Italian architect, Palladio.
But first we went to see the tomb of St. Anthony. The basilica was full, the Mass had begun, but in the side chapel off the main aisle people stood in line to file by the tomb, to touch the sarcophagus that held the saint's body, and to pray a moment. Some pressed their head against the stone tomb and others rubbed a cloth or handkerchief against the stone, then carefully wrapped the item in a plastic bag- their own relic.
There are photos attached to board, and pilgrims added to the snapshots of babies, old people, brides, and young children. One wonders what stories are behind each of these images.
The tomb itself is set upon an altar and surrounded by a marble rail. There is a statue of the saint himself and angels, and enormous silver candleholders with tall white candles burning. The chapel has marble reliefs on three sides, and you move from there to the chapel of St. Anthony's relics, including his tongue and vocal chords. A bit grim, but encased in gold reliquaries. His tunic is also on display.
After visiting St. Anthony we were off to Vicenza, which is also home to a US Air Force base.
We found ourselves at a Renaissance market with costumed traders, leather workers, food sellers, and cordmakers. The afternoon ended with a parade through the main piazza or plaza with young women in velvet gowns (despite the heat) accompanied by courtiers, knights with swords, drummers, trumpeters, and flag bearers. The colors and patterns were jewel-like and dizzying and the sound of the trumpets and drumming almost overwhelming.
The Palladian buildings were not as stunning as we remembered from photos and drawings, but the Olympic Theatre designed by Palladio and built in 1580-1585 (after his death) was incredible. The design was based on a Roman amphitheater and we sat on the original seats from 1585. Palladio, however, designed his amphitheater as an indoor structure with a roof that was painted blue with clouds. The stage has three entrances and you can look down what appear to be long Roman streets.
On a more somber note,there was also a 9/11 remembrance by the city and the US Air Force commander and his wife attended the brief ceremony on the steps of the municipal building. People were asked to write their memories of the day in a notebook. And the Italians reaffirmed their solidarity with Americans. It was rather startling to come upon this ceremony in a foreign country, and very touching.
Below:
The 9/11 remembrance
The Renaissance parade
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