More from Assisi

Wednesday, Sep 7
I should mention that on the train to Assisi with us were 2 young Franciscans. It all seemed so apt. We had to change trains and although we knew the stop, we figured watching the men in brown could not hurt. When we sopped to change, we had to smile as the young men got bottles of beer from a vending machine. It was hot and it was getting close to lunch time.

More Franciscans in their brown habits with cowl hanging down, knotted cord for a belt, and sandals were at the train station in Assisi and all through the town which added to a medieval feel. We wandered through the stone city with red-tiled roofs and found a small hotel at what the guidebook called the "quiet end of the town."( It turned out to be under the restaurant and overlooking the outdoor terrace. But the breakfast was lovely next day. )

After depositing our packs we headed out to visit the many churches in Assisi that are all connected with San Francesco, a wealthy hellraiser of the thirteenth century who had a vision from God, changed his ways, began preaching and living a life of poverty and simplicity, and found scores of other young men wanting to follow his example

Now back to the churches. First on our walk was San Rufino, San Francesco's parish church as a child and young man, with the definite feel of an alive neighborhood place of worship. The front has a large piazza or plaza and there are stone benches built into the walls that form part of the church complex. In the cool of the evening old people and families come to sit. There are lights and people visit. On this night a group of young and old nuns who live in the nearby convent congregated in one corner. They wore a gray habit and a white veil. And one young woman, not in a habit, played guitar while they all sang (in Italian) about the sun singing and smiling - that was all I caught for sure. It may have been a new take on a prayer of San Francesco, the Canticle of the Sun. Their voices were so sweet, and they did hand movements to some of the verses- cupping their hands to their mouth, motioning someone to come, and just swaying to the rhythm. I thought of taking a photo of the 10 or so women sitting in the corner and looking so happy, but it seemed such an invasion of their moment. It was enough to have the good fortune to witness it.

The church of San Rufino - who came to this area to preach and was martyred - is the patron saint of Assisi The church was built over a Roman temple and glass panels in the floor let you peer at the ancient foundation. The diocesan museum next door has an entrance to the crypt and it was fun to see all the paintings, diptychs and triptychs of lives of the saints. I adore hagiography - stories about the saints - and it's a delightful puzzle to look for the icons that identify the different holy men and women- such as Catherine of Alexandria with a spoked wheel; Mary Magdalen with a jar of ointment and very long hair; and Anthony of Padua with a stem of lilies, a book, and the Christ Child.

Assisi also has lovely outdoor cafes and gelato! And a shop and shopkeeper who reminded us of Juliet Binoche in the film "Chocolat." The meringues were as big as grapefruits,there were chocolates of all kinds in a beautiful glass case, and enormous logs of chocolate with different fillings you could order by the slice. Ah, Assisi has food for the body and the soul. I had a pistachio macaroon that was the size of a plum and had been rolled in whole pistachios!

Next we visited the Basilica of Santa Chiara who heard San Francesco preach and to devote her life to God also. San Francesco consecrated her to do God's work and she became the founder of an order of nuns who followed the teachings of San Franceso and their focus on the bows of poverty, chastity, and obedience. Her tomb is here, as well as other relics (such as locks of her hair) and a beautiful white alb for use during Mass that is decorated on what looks like embroidery, but is done by pulling threads. Say what you will about her sainthood, but she was an incredible needleworker.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone