We arrived back on Anchorage on Saturday, September 17. Good flight.
Thanks to all you, dear Readers!
Below:
One of my favorite photos - the giant lily pads at the botanical garden in Padua.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Home, Dear Readers
Saturday, September 17
We arrived back on Anchorage on Saturday, September 17. Good flight.
Thanks to all you, dear Readers!
Below:
One of my favorite photos - the giant lily pads at the botanical garden in Padua.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
We arrived back on Anchorage on Saturday, September 17. Good flight.
Thanks to all you, dear Readers!
Below:
One of my favorite photos - the giant lily pads at the botanical garden in Padua.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Greetings from Frankfurt
Friday, Sep 16
Got up at 5:30 am to catch the bus to the Bergamo Airport. Arrived at Frankfurt-Hahn on time on RyanAir. Whenever a RyanAir flight arrives on time a bugle sounds over the p.a. system.
We had anticipated meeting our friends, Pete and Sarah, in Frankfurt. They were in Europe to support Pete's son, Harlow, who was doing a TransAlpine race.
The four of us had actually met at the Bergamo airport en route to Frankfurt. Once in Frankfurt, We checked into our hotel and went off to sightsee We were able to walk to the Alte Stadt, the old part of town. While walking by the river, we saw some young men being arrested for some kind of sit-on About 25 of them were sitting on the grass. Police in riot gear were all around. One police officer called out about 3 or 4 names and young men stood up and were handcuffed and taken to a paddy wagon. We are still not sure why. The police then told the rest of the still-sitting crowd to disperse - and they did.
The old Catholic Dom - or cathedral - had some incredible altar pieces. Very Gothik. The church was heavily damaged in WW 2, and has been reconstructed. The interior walls look like brick, but the surface has been painted to look like brick.
We also visited the Lutheran Cathedral-shown below - candles.
Lots of things happening in the "Zeil"- Frankfurt's big shopping area next to the Alte Stadt. This is a huge pedestrian zone and there street vendors and performance artists galore, in addition to the regular shops and indoor mall. The architecture is very modernistic and we checked out the multi-story mall which looks like a geometric structure twisting in on itself.
Photos below:
l to r - John and our friends Sarah and Pete at the Frankfurt-Hahn Airport.
Getting off the plane at Frankfurt-Hahn.
Lunch on the Zeil- we found a great market and got picnic food to eat on a bench.
In the background, the group, Zeitlos, rocks out. They are on Facebook - they are great!
The Alte Stadt - the Old Town.
Candles in St. Paul's Church.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Got up at 5:30 am to catch the bus to the Bergamo Airport. Arrived at Frankfurt-Hahn on time on RyanAir. Whenever a RyanAir flight arrives on time a bugle sounds over the p.a. system.
We had anticipated meeting our friends, Pete and Sarah, in Frankfurt. They were in Europe to support Pete's son, Harlow, who was doing a TransAlpine race.
The four of us had actually met at the Bergamo airport en route to Frankfurt. Once in Frankfurt, We checked into our hotel and went off to sightsee We were able to walk to the Alte Stadt, the old part of town. While walking by the river, we saw some young men being arrested for some kind of sit-on About 25 of them were sitting on the grass. Police in riot gear were all around. One police officer called out about 3 or 4 names and young men stood up and were handcuffed and taken to a paddy wagon. We are still not sure why. The police then told the rest of the still-sitting crowd to disperse - and they did.
The old Catholic Dom - or cathedral - had some incredible altar pieces. Very Gothik. The church was heavily damaged in WW 2, and has been reconstructed. The interior walls look like brick, but the surface has been painted to look like brick.
We also visited the Lutheran Cathedral-shown below - candles.
Lots of things happening in the "Zeil"- Frankfurt's big shopping area next to the Alte Stadt. This is a huge pedestrian zone and there street vendors and performance artists galore, in addition to the regular shops and indoor mall. The architecture is very modernistic and we checked out the multi-story mall which looks like a geometric structure twisting in on itself.
Photos below:
l to r - John and our friends Sarah and Pete at the Frankfurt-Hahn Airport.
Getting off the plane at Frankfurt-Hahn.
Lunch on the Zeil- we found a great market and got picnic food to eat on a bench.
In the background, the group, Zeitlos, rocks out. They are on Facebook - they are great!
The Alte Stadt - the Old Town.
Candles in St. Paul's Church.
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The Last Gelato
Here is a photo of our last gelato of trip - in Bergamo.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Arco - a rock climbing Mecca
Thursday, September 15 continued
We left the Marmoleda and the war museum and arrived in Arco about 3:00 pm. We had come down out of the mountains and it was definitely warmer.
We changed clothes in the car. At the Marmoleda we had on our layers and I wore a hat and gloves. There was a cold breeze blowing as we went up the mountain in the lift at 9:00 am. Now we were among palm trees. Out came the sandals and sun hat!
There are lots of bicyclists in Arco, but the town had a medieval feel and tiny streets. There is a lake nearby in addition to the rock climbing area, and the town was bustling with young people and lots of activity. There were an incredible my number of gear shops, bike shops, and outdoor clothing stores. There is also a lovely book store with a reasonable selection of books in English and German, and the most complete collection of Lonely Planet travel books (in Italian) I have ever seen. They went on for shelves and shelves- pick a country, it was there.
There are churches, of course, including a tiny 16th century church dedicated to Santo Giuseppe(St. Joseph) which was right across from a gelato shop. And there is an enormous castle on the hill overlooking the town; it dates from the 500's and Emperor Theodoric.
As we drove from Arco we passed by the enormous lake and all the people enjoying a variety of water sports. Then onto the autostrada and Bergamo.
After returning the rental car at the Bergamo airport, we took the shuttle into town and found our hotel. Bergamo seemed full of banks! It also has a university and is the birthplace of the Italian composer, Donizetti.
Photos below:
Inside the church of Santo Giuseppe on Arco.
John rating gelato in Arco across from the church.
A cafe in Arco.
The Lancia rental car safely returned to Hertz at the Bergamo Airport.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
We left the Marmoleda and the war museum and arrived in Arco about 3:00 pm. We had come down out of the mountains and it was definitely warmer.
We changed clothes in the car. At the Marmoleda we had on our layers and I wore a hat and gloves. There was a cold breeze blowing as we went up the mountain in the lift at 9:00 am. Now we were among palm trees. Out came the sandals and sun hat!
There are lots of bicyclists in Arco, but the town had a medieval feel and tiny streets. There is a lake nearby in addition to the rock climbing area, and the town was bustling with young people and lots of activity. There were an incredible my number of gear shops, bike shops, and outdoor clothing stores. There is also a lovely book store with a reasonable selection of books in English and German, and the most complete collection of Lonely Planet travel books (in Italian) I have ever seen. They went on for shelves and shelves- pick a country, it was there.
There are churches, of course, including a tiny 16th century church dedicated to Santo Giuseppe(St. Joseph) which was right across from a gelato shop. And there is an enormous castle on the hill overlooking the town; it dates from the 500's and Emperor Theodoric.
As we drove from Arco we passed by the enormous lake and all the people enjoying a variety of water sports. Then onto the autostrada and Bergamo.
After returning the rental car at the Bergamo airport, we took the shuttle into town and found our hotel. Bergamo seemed full of banks! It also has a university and is the birthplace of the Italian composer, Donizetti.
Photos below:
Inside the church of Santo Giuseppe on Arco.
John rating gelato in Arco across from the church.
A cafe in Arco.
The Lancia rental car safely returned to Hertz at the Bergamo Airport.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
The Marmoleda
Thursday, September 15
Today our plan involved driving to the Marmoleda, then to the town of Arco where there is lots of rock climbing for a quick look around, then on to Bergamo where we had a hotel reservation. We were to catch our flight to Frankfurt early Friday morning from Bergamo Airport
From our albergo in Cancia we were very close to the Marmoleda, a huge massif dripping with a shrinking glacier. It is ringed by valleys and there are ski lifts that provide easy access at different points around the mountain. The receding glacier is in a state of rapid meltdown and has exposed many WW1 relics including firearms, equipment, and clothing. These mountains were bitterly contested between the Italians and the Austro-Hungarians.
We took a open mini-gondola- it holds 2 people standing for a 15 minute ride, to the Marmoleda Rifugio. From there hikers and mountaineers go further up the glacier to the summit of the peaks and from there can go along the ridge to another rifugio.
I started up toward the glacier with John; there were stairs cut into the rock face for part of the way. Then it got steeper with lots of loose rock. I decided to go back to the rifugio for a cup of tea. John hiked up to the glacier. There were lots of other hikers. That was one thing that struck us - just the sheer number of people given the time of year at all the hiking places we visited. John commented on the difference in population density at these areas versus Alaskan hiking trails - in Italy you really feel the crush of people. It must be incredible during the summer high season.
After John returned from his hike, he was standing to order coffee and was suddenly asked by a young German woman to watch her one-year old while she ran outside. She thought she had dropped her wallet getting off the lift. I did not realize John was back and looked up when I heard him saying,"Well, how are you?" in a different tone of voice than normal. Dylan was the baby and he was very sweet. All's well that ends well, and the mother came running in again, rifled through the baby's bag and found her wallet.
We took the lift Dow - which was a bit of a process. It does not stop, it merely slows down for you to jim on and the attendant secures the gate. Getting on was mo problem. I used to jump onto moving cablecars all the time when I lived in San Francisco. Getting off was a little trickier, and on the ride up, I was very glad for the young Italian guy who caught me as I lost my balance. By the trip down, I was old hand and made it off just fine. John has the sure-footedness of a mountain goat.
Next stops: the WW1 museum and Arco.
Photos below:
John and baby Dylan.
The rifugio.
The lift stop.
The lift.
The war museum.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Today our plan involved driving to the Marmoleda, then to the town of Arco where there is lots of rock climbing for a quick look around, then on to Bergamo where we had a hotel reservation. We were to catch our flight to Frankfurt early Friday morning from Bergamo Airport
From our albergo in Cancia we were very close to the Marmoleda, a huge massif dripping with a shrinking glacier. It is ringed by valleys and there are ski lifts that provide easy access at different points around the mountain. The receding glacier is in a state of rapid meltdown and has exposed many WW1 relics including firearms, equipment, and clothing. These mountains were bitterly contested between the Italians and the Austro-Hungarians.
We took a open mini-gondola- it holds 2 people standing for a 15 minute ride, to the Marmoleda Rifugio. From there hikers and mountaineers go further up the glacier to the summit of the peaks and from there can go along the ridge to another rifugio.
I started up toward the glacier with John; there were stairs cut into the rock face for part of the way. Then it got steeper with lots of loose rock. I decided to go back to the rifugio for a cup of tea. John hiked up to the glacier. There were lots of other hikers. That was one thing that struck us - just the sheer number of people given the time of year at all the hiking places we visited. John commented on the difference in population density at these areas versus Alaskan hiking trails - in Italy you really feel the crush of people. It must be incredible during the summer high season.
After John returned from his hike, he was standing to order coffee and was suddenly asked by a young German woman to watch her one-year old while she ran outside. She thought she had dropped her wallet getting off the lift. I did not realize John was back and looked up when I heard him saying,"Well, how are you?" in a different tone of voice than normal. Dylan was the baby and he was very sweet. All's well that ends well, and the mother came running in again, rifled through the baby's bag and found her wallet.
We took the lift Dow - which was a bit of a process. It does not stop, it merely slows down for you to jim on and the attendant secures the gate. Getting on was mo problem. I used to jump onto moving cablecars all the time when I lived in San Francisco. Getting off was a little trickier, and on the ride up, I was very glad for the young Italian guy who caught me as I lost my balance. By the trip down, I was old hand and made it off just fine. John has the sure-footedness of a mountain goat.
Next stops: the WW1 museum and Arco.
Photos below:
John and baby Dylan.
The rifugio.
The lift stop.
The lift.
The war museum.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Another hike in the Dolomites
Wednesday, September 14
Today we drove to the town of Palavera to start a hike up to the Rifugio A Sonino, up toward the Civetta, a famous rock face. The trail was very steep and rocky, but amazingly we saw bicycle riders!
Two young guys from Germany were biking, often carrying, their bikes along the trail. We noticed they had heavy backpacks, no panniers. I asked one of the fellows why no panniers. He explained in excellent English how panniers made it difficult to handle the bike, put the balance off, and he said, "Besides, it doesn't look cool!"
On the way down, we switched to a less steep route. From there we drove to Rifugio Staulanza, a Rifugio accessible from the road. A German couple we met the day before had started here and hiked to Rifugio Venezia. The great part of starting from this direction is the possibility of taking a brief detour to see dinosaur footprints. This Rifugio seemed less charming and less welcoming, perhaps because it was so close to the road system.
After a coffee, we started our drive up through the mountains toward villages of Arraba and Cancia. Mountain biking and hiking are big summer activities, but the area is even better known for winter skiing. The network of trails, skilifts, and huts goes on for miles. You can link up a multi-day journey without ever going down into a village.
People were also parasailing and using the lifts to get themselves to various mountains to launch. We thought about overnighting in Arraba and stopped to walk around. John saw someone handing out yellow flyers at the cafes. As we came around a corner, we found one posted to the side of a building with today's date. I knew enough Italian to make out that it was a health advisory about the water in the town- it was contaminated and the authorities were taking action. People were advised against using the water for food preparation. At that point, we got back in the car and drove on.
In Cancia we found an Albergo and stopped for the night.
Below
A view in the Dolomites
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Today we drove to the town of Palavera to start a hike up to the Rifugio A Sonino, up toward the Civetta, a famous rock face. The trail was very steep and rocky, but amazingly we saw bicycle riders!
Two young guys from Germany were biking, often carrying, their bikes along the trail. We noticed they had heavy backpacks, no panniers. I asked one of the fellows why no panniers. He explained in excellent English how panniers made it difficult to handle the bike, put the balance off, and he said, "Besides, it doesn't look cool!"
On the way down, we switched to a less steep route. From there we drove to Rifugio Staulanza, a Rifugio accessible from the road. A German couple we met the day before had started here and hiked to Rifugio Venezia. The great part of starting from this direction is the possibility of taking a brief detour to see dinosaur footprints. This Rifugio seemed less charming and less welcoming, perhaps because it was so close to the road system.
After a coffee, we started our drive up through the mountains toward villages of Arraba and Cancia. Mountain biking and hiking are big summer activities, but the area is even better known for winter skiing. The network of trails, skilifts, and huts goes on for miles. You can link up a multi-day journey without ever going down into a village.
People were also parasailing and using the lifts to get themselves to various mountains to launch. We thought about overnighting in Arraba and stopped to walk around. John saw someone handing out yellow flyers at the cafes. As we came around a corner, we found one posted to the side of a building with today's date. I knew enough Italian to make out that it was a health advisory about the water in the town- it was contaminated and the authorities were taking action. People were advised against using the water for food preparation. At that point, we got back in the car and drove on.
In Cancia we found an Albergo and stopped for the night.
Below
A view in the Dolomites
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Friday, September 16, 2011
More photos from the Dolomites
Tuesday, Sep 13
A tarn - a lake in the Dolomites - that is shrinking. Postcards of the lake show a much larger body of water.
Taking a break.
Some scree on part of the trail.
A small set of buildings along one point of the trail. There was an old man here who sold us coffee in shot glasses. He also offered us Schnapps to put in the coffee. When we declined, he patted me on the head and smiled.
The cows next to the buildings above.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
A tarn - a lake in the Dolomites - that is shrinking. Postcards of the lake show a much larger body of water.
Taking a break.
Some scree on part of the trail.
A small set of buildings along one point of the trail. There was an old man here who sold us coffee in shot glasses. He also offered us Schnapps to put in the coffee. When we declined, he patted me on the head and smiled.
The cows next to the buildings above.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
A note from the author
Wednesday, Sep 14
Gentle Readers,
Thank you for your patience. The wifi has been unreliable and I have had a steeper learning curve re Blogpress (the software for using Blogger on an iPhone) than anticipated. To be frank, typing on the iPhone keypad is better than trying to do this on an old cellphone, but it is tedious and finicky. And I not always happy with my posts - some need serious editing, but usually my wifi time is about to expire or suddenly the iPhone starts acting weird, and it's publish or perish.
So "Adieu Assisi" should more aptly have been "Arrivederci Assisi." So much for errata tonight.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Gentle Readers,
Thank you for your patience. The wifi has been unreliable and I have had a steeper learning curve re Blogpress (the software for using Blogger on an iPhone) than anticipated. To be frank, typing on the iPhone keypad is better than trying to do this on an old cellphone, but it is tedious and finicky. And I not always happy with my posts - some need serious editing, but usually my wifi time is about to expire or suddenly the iPhone starts acting weird, and it's publish or perish.
So "Adieu Assisi" should more aptly have been "Arrivederci Assisi." So much for errata tonight.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Hiking the Dolomites
Tuesday, Sep 13
Today we hiked to the base of Mount Pelmo and went to the Rifugio Venezia, part of the hut system. The Rifugio is like a bar,
restaurant, hostel. You need a sleeping bag to stay overnight. The rooms sleep two persons, four persons, or up to twenty in the big loft. The rifugios are all over the mountains andyou can do multi-day trips.
Our hike started in fields, then up to forested hills with periodic meadows. We were going through pasture land and had to open and close gates. Parts were a bit steep and rocky. At the top we had something to drink, and chatted with some other hikers. One couple was from Germany and told us about some other hikes in the area. On the way back we took another route that was on our map, but was not well marked on the trail. We got back rather late and ended up staying
at the same hotel, Albergo Posta, that we stayed at the night before.
Below are photos from the hike, including photos of the Rifugio and the hut shoes- crocs.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Today we hiked to the base of Mount Pelmo and went to the Rifugio Venezia, part of the hut system. The Rifugio is like a bar,
restaurant, hostel. You need a sleeping bag to stay overnight. The rooms sleep two persons, four persons, or up to twenty in the big loft. The rifugios are all over the mountains andyou can do multi-day trips.
Our hike started in fields, then up to forested hills with periodic meadows. We were going through pasture land and had to open and close gates. Parts were a bit steep and rocky. At the top we had something to drink, and chatted with some other hikers. One couple was from Germany and told us about some other hikes in the area. On the way back we took another route that was on our map, but was not well marked on the trail. We got back rather late and ended up staying
at the same hotel, Albergo Posta, that we stayed at the night before.
Below are photos from the hike, including photos of the Rifugio and the hut shoes- crocs.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Driving from Padova
Monday, Sep 12
Today is the day we picked up our rental car- a Lancia Ypsilon - 2 door. We managed much of the negotiation in Italian. Then we headed out for the South Tyrol. We were autostrade most of the time- combo freeway and toll road.
Soon we were in the Dolomites - big limestone mountains. This part of the Alps - eastern - is known for rock climbing. The western slopes of the Alps are for ice climbing. John has wanted to be in the Dolomites for some time and we are enjoying seeing the incredible towering rock formations. We will be doing some hiking.
There are big trees, lots of larches. Iron was found here back on the 1400's and silver, too. The area was known for making iron keys fir the Veneto- the area ruled by Venice.
The driving is a bit nerve wracking. We are on serpentine, narrow roads, and people seem to be driving too fast for conditions. But the weather is sunny and the pavement dry.
Soon we are in the village of Cibiana with paintings on the houses. This was the result of an art project 30 years ago. Artists from different countries participated and there is There is a definite Heidi and Alpine look to the houses and landscape. People speak Italian predominantly, but also German and English. The food is also Italian, but as we head West this could change.
We end up in Forno di Zoldo, a delightful village, and find a delightful hotel, Albergo Posta.
Below:
John in the rental car. He said this should be titled, "The Last Time He Smiled."
The rental car.
Cibiana.
One of the paintings on a village house.
Albergo Posta in Forno di Zoldo in the Dolomites.
Barbara and Maia. Maia and her husband Italo own the hotel.
John in the breakfast room.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Today is the day we picked up our rental car- a Lancia Ypsilon - 2 door. We managed much of the negotiation in Italian. Then we headed out for the South Tyrol. We were autostrade most of the time- combo freeway and toll road.
Soon we were in the Dolomites - big limestone mountains. This part of the Alps - eastern - is known for rock climbing. The western slopes of the Alps are for ice climbing. John has wanted to be in the Dolomites for some time and we are enjoying seeing the incredible towering rock formations. We will be doing some hiking.
There are big trees, lots of larches. Iron was found here back on the 1400's and silver, too. The area was known for making iron keys fir the Veneto- the area ruled by Venice.
The driving is a bit nerve wracking. We are on serpentine, narrow roads, and people seem to be driving too fast for conditions. But the weather is sunny and the pavement dry.
Soon we are in the village of Cibiana with paintings on the houses. This was the result of an art project 30 years ago. Artists from different countries participated and there is There is a definite Heidi and Alpine look to the houses and landscape. People speak Italian predominantly, but also German and English. The food is also Italian, but as we head West this could change.
We end up in Forno di Zoldo, a delightful village, and find a delightful hotel, Albergo Posta.
Below:
John in the rental car. He said this should be titled, "The Last Time He Smiled."
The rental car.
Cibiana.
One of the paintings on a village house.
Albergo Posta in Forno di Zoldo in the Dolomites.
Barbara and Maia. Maia and her husband Italo own the hotel.
John in the breakfast room.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Off to Vicenza from Padova
Sunday, Sep 11
Because Padova did not charm us, we made plans to take a train to Vicenza, 20 minutes away, to see buildings by the famous 16th century Italian architect, Palladio.
But first we went to see the tomb of St. Anthony. The basilica was full, the Mass had begun, but in the side chapel off the main aisle people stood in line to file by the tomb, to touch the sarcophagus that held the saint's body, and to pray a moment. Some pressed their head against the stone tomb and others rubbed a cloth or handkerchief against the stone, then carefully wrapped the item in a plastic bag- their own relic.
There are photos attached to board, and pilgrims added to the snapshots of babies, old people, brides, and young children. One wonders what stories are behind each of these images.
The tomb itself is set upon an altar and surrounded by a marble rail. There is a statue of the saint himself and angels, and enormous silver candleholders with tall white candles burning. The chapel has marble reliefs on three sides, and you move from there to the chapel of St. Anthony's relics, including his tongue and vocal chords. A bit grim, but encased in gold reliquaries. His tunic is also on display.
After visiting St. Anthony we were off to Vicenza, which is also home to a US Air Force base.
We found ourselves at a Renaissance market with costumed traders, leather workers, food sellers, and cordmakers. The afternoon ended with a parade through the main piazza or plaza with young women in velvet gowns (despite the heat) accompanied by courtiers, knights with swords, drummers, trumpeters, and flag bearers. The colors and patterns were jewel-like and dizzying and the sound of the trumpets and drumming almost overwhelming.
The Palladian buildings were not as stunning as we remembered from photos and drawings, but the Olympic Theatre designed by Palladio and built in 1580-1585 (after his death) was incredible. The design was based on a Roman amphitheater and we sat on the original seats from 1585. Palladio, however, designed his amphitheater as an indoor structure with a roof that was painted blue with clouds. The stage has three entrances and you can look down what appear to be long Roman streets.
On a more somber note,there was also a 9/11 remembrance by the city and the US Air Force commander and his wife attended the brief ceremony on the steps of the municipal building. People were asked to write their memories of the day in a notebook. And the Italians reaffirmed their solidarity with Americans. It was rather startling to come upon this ceremony in a foreign country, and very touching.
Below:
The 9/11 remembrance
The Renaissance parade
Because Padova did not charm us, we made plans to take a train to Vicenza, 20 minutes away, to see buildings by the famous 16th century Italian architect, Palladio.
But first we went to see the tomb of St. Anthony. The basilica was full, the Mass had begun, but in the side chapel off the main aisle people stood in line to file by the tomb, to touch the sarcophagus that held the saint's body, and to pray a moment. Some pressed their head against the stone tomb and others rubbed a cloth or handkerchief against the stone, then carefully wrapped the item in a plastic bag- their own relic.
There are photos attached to board, and pilgrims added to the snapshots of babies, old people, brides, and young children. One wonders what stories are behind each of these images.
The tomb itself is set upon an altar and surrounded by a marble rail. There is a statue of the saint himself and angels, and enormous silver candleholders with tall white candles burning. The chapel has marble reliefs on three sides, and you move from there to the chapel of St. Anthony's relics, including his tongue and vocal chords. A bit grim, but encased in gold reliquaries. His tunic is also on display.
After visiting St. Anthony we were off to Vicenza, which is also home to a US Air Force base.
We found ourselves at a Renaissance market with costumed traders, leather workers, food sellers, and cordmakers. The afternoon ended with a parade through the main piazza or plaza with young women in velvet gowns (despite the heat) accompanied by courtiers, knights with swords, drummers, trumpeters, and flag bearers. The colors and patterns were jewel-like and dizzying and the sound of the trumpets and drumming almost overwhelming.
The Palladian buildings were not as stunning as we remembered from photos and drawings, but the Olympic Theatre designed by Palladio and built in 1580-1585 (after his death) was incredible. The design was based on a Roman amphitheater and we sat on the original seats from 1585. Palladio, however, designed his amphitheater as an indoor structure with a roof that was painted blue with clouds. The stage has three entrances and you can look down what appear to be long Roman streets.
On a more somber note,there was also a 9/11 remembrance by the city and the US Air Force commander and his wife attended the brief ceremony on the steps of the municipal building. People were asked to write their memories of the day in a notebook. And the Italians reaffirmed their solidarity with Americans. It was rather startling to come upon this ceremony in a foreign country, and very touching.
Below:
The 9/11 remembrance
The Renaissance parade
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Firenze and the crowds
This post got out of order.
Saturday, Sep 10
We caught the bus at 7:15 am and were in Camucia by 7:30 am for the train to Firenze (Florence). Had a near mishap with getting only one ticket from the ticket machine, but John raced back and got another just as the train pulled in. Sometimes when you buy tickets for two people, you get one ticket that says "2 adulti," meaning two adults. The ticket we got at Camucia for Florence had a "2," but it meant second class seating.
However as the train was pulling
out of the station we realized John's ticket was not validated. After you buy a ticket you have to find a yellow validating machine and insert your ticket to be date and location stamped. So at the next stop John thought he could quickly leave the train, find a validating machine on the platform and quickly hop back on. The issues: how close would a machine be to our part of the train, and how quickly would the train leave the station after stopping. Thus far, the trains have been remarkably punctual and barely waste any time in the stations. Before the conductor came through, John was able to jump on and off and get validated. The whole ticket thing was a concern because of the signs warning that getting on a train without a ticket was a 40 euro fine- we were not sure where a non-validated ticket might fall in that scheme.
The moment we stepped off the train in Firenze we felt the humidity. Suddenly it was really hot. But we stashed our packs at the luggage deposit area in the train station and set off for the Duomo- the big cathedral with the first dome since the Romans. Bruneschelli was the architect. Giotto who did the frescoes in Assisi and the Annunciation in Cortona designed the bell tower next to the Duomo, and Ghiberti did the amazing doors to the baptistry (a separate building) which depict scenes from the Bible.
We were last on Firenze in late fall. There were still tourists, but we were surprised to see a waiting line snaking around the Duomo. A woman said she had been waiting 45 minutes. We only had 2 hours before our train to Padua (Padova). So we did a circuit of the building and worked through the crowd, and decided to get in line to see if it moved at all. The angels were with us and the line suddenly started moving. We were at the entrance quickly and saw a male uniformed attendant telling a young woman in a halter top she could not come in. Signs were posted outside the main doors outlining the dress code. Arms and shoulders must covered; no shots or short skirts. Some women had long scarves and threw them over their shoulders or around their waist.
The Duomo is am architectural feat, but had less of the feel of a place of worship than the other cathedrals and basilicas we'd visited on the trip. A quick look around; then down to the crypt to see the old Roman foundation and the remains of the Church of St. Reparata from the 4th century founded by Syrian Christians. The Syrians were some of the earliest Christians and many came to Firenze as traders.
Our last stop in Firenze was the Palazzo Medici dating from 1444, but bought by the Riccardi family in the 1700's and subjected to a Baroque make-over. Still just the sheer size of the rooms and the outdoor spaces was impressive.
Next stop Padova.
Below
Palazzo Medici garden
Line outside the Duomo
The Bell tower next to Duomo
Lighting a candle inside the Duomo
Saturday, Sep 10
We caught the bus at 7:15 am and were in Camucia by 7:30 am for the train to Firenze (Florence). Had a near mishap with getting only one ticket from the ticket machine, but John raced back and got another just as the train pulled in. Sometimes when you buy tickets for two people, you get one ticket that says "2 adulti," meaning two adults. The ticket we got at Camucia for Florence had a "2," but it meant second class seating.
However as the train was pulling
out of the station we realized John's ticket was not validated. After you buy a ticket you have to find a yellow validating machine and insert your ticket to be date and location stamped. So at the next stop John thought he could quickly leave the train, find a validating machine on the platform and quickly hop back on. The issues: how close would a machine be to our part of the train, and how quickly would the train leave the station after stopping. Thus far, the trains have been remarkably punctual and barely waste any time in the stations. Before the conductor came through, John was able to jump on and off and get validated. The whole ticket thing was a concern because of the signs warning that getting on a train without a ticket was a 40 euro fine- we were not sure where a non-validated ticket might fall in that scheme.
The moment we stepped off the train in Firenze we felt the humidity. Suddenly it was really hot. But we stashed our packs at the luggage deposit area in the train station and set off for the Duomo- the big cathedral with the first dome since the Romans. Bruneschelli was the architect. Giotto who did the frescoes in Assisi and the Annunciation in Cortona designed the bell tower next to the Duomo, and Ghiberti did the amazing doors to the baptistry (a separate building) which depict scenes from the Bible.
We were last on Firenze in late fall. There were still tourists, but we were surprised to see a waiting line snaking around the Duomo. A woman said she had been waiting 45 minutes. We only had 2 hours before our train to Padua (Padova). So we did a circuit of the building and worked through the crowd, and decided to get in line to see if it moved at all. The angels were with us and the line suddenly started moving. We were at the entrance quickly and saw a male uniformed attendant telling a young woman in a halter top she could not come in. Signs were posted outside the main doors outlining the dress code. Arms and shoulders must covered; no shots or short skirts. Some women had long scarves and threw them over their shoulders or around their waist.
The Duomo is am architectural feat, but had less of the feel of a place of worship than the other cathedrals and basilicas we'd visited on the trip. A quick look around; then down to the crypt to see the old Roman foundation and the remains of the Church of St. Reparata from the 4th century founded by Syrian Christians. The Syrians were some of the earliest Christians and many came to Firenze as traders.
Our last stop in Firenze was the Palazzo Medici dating from 1444, but bought by the Riccardi family in the 1700's and subjected to a Baroque make-over. Still just the sheer size of the rooms and the outdoor spaces was impressive.
Next stop Padova.
Below
Palazzo Medici garden
Line outside the Duomo
The Bell tower next to Duomo
Lighting a candle inside the Duomo
Last day in Cortona
Friday, Sep 9
The weather is still sunny and warm, but comfortable.
Our last day in Cortona included the Etruscan museum with Romano-Etruscan pottery, mosaics, and sculpture. We learned the Etruscans may have practiced human sacrifice and the Romans bred and fattened dormice in enormous pottery containers. Then off to see Fra Angelico's painting of "The Annunciation," at the Diocesan Museum.
During our walk around the city walls we stumbled upon San Niccolo Church. What a jewel of a church with a white and gold coffered ceiling and an altar piece that swings out to show a painting on the back by Signorelli, a famous local Renaissance painter. The small plaza is lined with cypress trees. And we ended the day at the Church of San Francesco and more relics. The fascinating thong about these is that they have been tested recently, and the fabric of the saint' s tunic, as well as the fabric of the pillow given to him by a nobleman, do date from the 13th century. There was also a piece of the cross Christ was crucified on, but no notes about testing.
Our last supper in Cortona was eaten at what became our favorite restaurant and we sat next to a beautiful Bernese mountain dog who lay quietly at his owner's feet. I saw his owner take out some sliced ham, and for a brief moment I thought the couple had brought their own antipasti! But the ham and the water they ordered were for the sweet dog!
Tomorrow we leave for Padua, but change trains in Florence. So we have decided to leave our packs and visit the Duomo. We were fortunate to be in Florence a few years ago and are looking forward to going back.
Photos
Top:
Obviously not the Bernese, but another sweet dog we met who waited everyday outside his owner's small shop. The dog got tons of attention.
Middle
In the Diocesan museum was a small chapel with replicas of the type of chairs the Franciscans sat in. Quite ingenius - they fold up.
Bottom
A former palazzo or palace, now the Etruscan Museum.
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The weather is still sunny and warm, but comfortable.
Our last day in Cortona included the Etruscan museum with Romano-Etruscan pottery, mosaics, and sculpture. We learned the Etruscans may have practiced human sacrifice and the Romans bred and fattened dormice in enormous pottery containers. Then off to see Fra Angelico's painting of "The Annunciation," at the Diocesan Museum.
During our walk around the city walls we stumbled upon San Niccolo Church. What a jewel of a church with a white and gold coffered ceiling and an altar piece that swings out to show a painting on the back by Signorelli, a famous local Renaissance painter. The small plaza is lined with cypress trees. And we ended the day at the Church of San Francesco and more relics. The fascinating thong about these is that they have been tested recently, and the fabric of the saint' s tunic, as well as the fabric of the pillow given to him by a nobleman, do date from the 13th century. There was also a piece of the cross Christ was crucified on, but no notes about testing.
Our last supper in Cortona was eaten at what became our favorite restaurant and we sat next to a beautiful Bernese mountain dog who lay quietly at his owner's feet. I saw his owner take out some sliced ham, and for a brief moment I thought the couple had brought their own antipasti! But the ham and the water they ordered were for the sweet dog!
Tomorrow we leave for Padua, but change trains in Florence. So we have decided to leave our packs and visit the Duomo. We were fortunate to be in Florence a few years ago and are looking forward to going back.
Photos
Top:
Obviously not the Bernese, but another sweet dog we met who waited everyday outside his owner's small shop. The dog got tons of attention.
Middle
In the Diocesan museum was a small chapel with replicas of the type of chairs the Franciscans sat in. Quite ingenius - they fold up.
Bottom
A former palazzo or palace, now the Etruscan Museum.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Cortona continued
Thursday, Sep 8
Above is part of the original Etruscan wall surrounding the city.
As we walled down the street from our hotel toward the center of town we ran into a bridal party having pictures taken at various points around the city. It was fun to see the young couple, and all the tourists, including me, were taking photos of them. As we got closer to the piazza (one of the many plazas), we heard
the music and saw the guests and all the other members of the bridal party dancing, eating, and drinking on a terrace above us.
We stopped at a cafe for coffee and noticed a group of Americans nearby. One of them
had a Girdwood Search & Rescue t-shirt. He was indeed from Girdwood, though not really a member of the GSR. The group was biking through Tuscany and we ended up joining them at a winetasting on the piazza- free. We had some brunelli wine- a red from Tuscany- which we later found out was 65 euros a bottle. It was very smooth.
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Friday, September 9, 2011
Buon giorno, Cortona
Thursday, Sep 8
After talking to Martin and Saba we hurried to the train for Cortona- "Under the Tuscan Sun" - I had seem the movie, but never read the book.
It does look just like the movie- red-tiled roofs, warm colored stone, cypress trees ....
It also has more tourists than Assisi - well-heeled by the look of the shops, and the tourists themselves No tacky t-shirt stores here. But there are many Italians, as well as Americans,Germans, and a smattering of English, most of whom look like they walked out of "A Room with a View."
Our hotel overlooks the valley and has a terrace for breakfast. Temperatures are higher than normal, in the high 80s and 90s. It does feel wonderful after our cool summer.
We ran into a wedding on our first day.
After talking to Martin and Saba we hurried to the train for Cortona- "Under the Tuscan Sun" - I had seem the movie, but never read the book.
It does look just like the movie- red-tiled roofs, warm colored stone, cypress trees ....
It also has more tourists than Assisi - well-heeled by the look of the shops, and the tourists themselves No tacky t-shirt stores here. But there are many Italians, as well as Americans,Germans, and a smattering of English, most of whom look like they walked out of "A Room with a View."
Our hotel overlooks the valley and has a terrace for breakfast. Temperatures are higher than normal, in the high 80s and 90s. It does feel wonderful after our cool summer.
We ran into a wedding on our first day.
Adieu Assisi
You saw the photo of our packs. Not many people are carrying packs. En route to the train station to catch the train to Cortona, we stopped at another basilica which had been built over the tiny chapel San Francesco had prayed in after having his vision and embarking on a new life. There is an enormous church now built over the tiny chapel. It is intact in the center of the church and has had frescoes added. A strange juxtaposition, and not a pleasing one. As we exited the church, a couple in their 30s approached us. The Nolan asked if we were pilgrims. There is a Cammino San
Francesco nearby, but it is only 80 km and is not the same scale or age as the Camino to Santiago. These two people had met walking the Camino in June. We said sadly we were not pilgrims, in spite of our packs, and not even walking. But we enjoyed talking about the Camino and our experiences. Marin was from Germany and Saba from Milan. This was their first visit since the Camino, and who knows where the road will lead them. We did tell them about
Martin Luther's walk to Rome and the 500th anniversary in 2010. A walk that does sound very intriguing.
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Francesco nearby, but it is only 80 km and is not the same scale or age as the Camino to Santiago. These two people had met walking the Camino in June. We said sadly we were not pilgrims, in spite of our packs, and not even walking. But we enjoyed talking about the Camino and our experiences. Marin was from Germany and Saba from Milan. This was their first visit since the Camino, and who knows where the road will lead them. We did tell them about
Martin Luther's walk to Rome and the 500th anniversary in 2010. A walk that does sound very intriguing.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
The Basilica of San Francesco
Wed, Sep 7
I posted two photos earlier of the Basilica. Now for a bit of description. I thought I had posted this already, but do not see the post. Hopefully this is not a duplicate.
There is an upper and a lower basilica. The basilicas were begun in the 1200's after San Francesco's death (1182-1226). The upper one has lovely frescoes on the ceiling depicting Sa Francesco and the vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience. For example, San Francesco is shown in an allegory marrying the personification of Poverty as a lovely young woman in a patched white wedding dress (my favorite of the images). The lower basilica has the famous 28 frescoes by Giotto depicting scenes from the life and death of San Francesco, including his miracles. One of the most famous and popular of the frescoes shows San Francesco preaching to the birds, who are so charmed and drawn to him they have come down out of the trees and are standing on the ground looking up at him as he bends over to preach his message. It is truly a lovely image. People are sitting and looking at the images that flank the walls and also walking about from Greco to fresco. There is a bit of a minor din at times, and an attendant walks about with a microphone saying periodically,"silenzio" and making a shushing sound which no one seems to really respond to.
Below both of these basilica is the tomb of San Francesco he is buried beneath an altar with tall burning candles. You can buy a candle to burn on the altar. You take one from a basket at the entrance to this chapel and place a euro in a box. Next you take your candle or candles up to the foot of the altar and lay them in a basket. There was a minor scene when some German tourists went up to the basket and started taking the candles apparently thinking the were souvenirs or were there to purchase for lighting. The chapel was silent, but scores of people seemed to take a collective in breath. Then someone from their group quickly went up to the persons and they put the candles back. Deo gratis. An international incident averted.
Below
John at an outdoor cafe in Assisi
Eating limone gelato al fresco
Our packs on the train trip to Assisi
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